How to troubleshoot an EGR valve?

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Troubleshooting an EGR Valve:

Given the various styles of EGR valves, it’s always best to follow the troubleshooting procedures detailed within the service manual, however, some general steps may help to pinpoint a diagnosis.

 

They are:

  1. Read any fault codes on electronically controlled EGR valves employing a diagnostic tool.
  2. Check that all vacuum lines and electrical connections are connected and positioned correctly.
  3. Use a vacuum gauge to test the vacuum supply hose for vacuum at 2000 to 2500 RPM. No vacuum at normal operating temperatures would suggest a loose hose, a blocked or faulty ported vacuum switch or solenoid, or a faulty vacuum amplifier/pump.
  4. Check the vacuum solenoid while the engine is running. On electronically controlled EGR valves, activate the solenoid with a scan tool and check the vacuum at end of the pipe. If the solenoid doesn’t open when energized, is stuck within the open or closed position, or contains a corroded electrical connection, loose wire, or bad ground, EGR operation are going to be affected. Identify the foundation cause before replacing it.
  5. If possible, check the movement of the valve stem at 1500 to 2000 RPM. The valve stem should move if the valve is functioning correctly – if not, and there’s a vacuum, there’s a fault.
  6. Apply vacuum on to the EGR valve using either a hand air pump or scan tool counting on the sort of EGR valve. If there’s no change in idle quality, then either the EGR valve is faulty or the passages are completely restricted. If the engine idles rough or stalls, the matter is being caused by a malfunctioning system.
  7. Remove the EGR valve and check for carbon build-up. Where possible, remove any carbon, being careful to not contaminate the diaphragm.
  8. Inspect the EGR passageway within the manifold for clogging and clean if required.

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