Changing Brake Fluid:
Each car is different, however, the final procedure remains identical. Before we do, there’s one caveat: it’s much easier for a person to assist you. The best way to tackling this is often with the car on jack stands, and all four wheels removed before you begin.
Step 1 – Drain the old fluid:
Take the mop up the brake piston chamber and, using a turkey baster or something similar, remove the maximum amount of the fluid as possible. Put this old fluid in a very suitable container for disposal. Once you’ve removed the maximum amount as you’ll be able to, get a lint-free cloth and clean out any debris that may be in the reservoir.
Step 2 – Fill it back up:
Once that’s done, you would like to fill the hydraulic brake cylinder back up with fresh, new fluid, right up to the MAX line. Ensure you employ the correct-specification fluid which should be marked on the hydraulic brake cylinder cap. Don’t put the cap back on yet, because you will need to top it up some times. You’re looking to push all the old fluid out with the clean, new fluid.
Step 3 – On to the calipers/cylinders:
Each brake caliper or hydraulic brake wheel cylinder encompasses a bleed nipple on the rear. Spray each with some brake cleaner to scrub off the grease and dirt, then penetrating oil to free it up.
Step 4 – Start with the furthest:
For most cars, you begin at the corner furthest from the hydraulic brake cylinder. That might be the rear wheel on the passenger side. Affix a tiny low length of rubber hose to the bleed nipple, and so submerge the tip of the hose into the container you set the old brake fluid from the piston chamber.
Step 5 – Time for a helper:
With your helper on the driver’s seat, head to the primary bleed nipple. Stick a block under the foot pedal to prevent it from being pushed to the ground, which is simply too far.
Step 6 – Pump and hold:
Have them pump the brakes 3 times, then hold the pedal down. While they hold the pedal, you loosen the bleed nipple and old fluid should quickly set out, together with any air within the line. Close the nipple and signal for your helper to pump the pedal again and hold it. Open and shut the nipple again. Keep doing this until new fluid is coming through, with no bubbles.
Step 7 – Top-ups:
Keep a watch on the fluid level within the hydraulic brake cylinder, because you may top this up as you progress. If you let the piston chamber reservoir run empty, you’ll pump air into the lines and should start over.
Step 8 – Rise and repeat:
Do the identical for every wheel, working closer to the hydraulic brake cylinder as you go.
Step 9 – One last thing:
When you finish the last caliper, you must have a good pedal ‘feel’, by which we mean the pedal should feel firm. This can be good because it means the brake is filled with new fluid and not air. Now check the amount within the hydraulic brake cylinder one last time, replenish if needed, then close it up.
Step 10 – Wheels on:
With all four wheels off, this is often also a good time to rotate the tires. Put the wheels back on, lower the car to the bottom, and air your way.
Remember to always watch out about the primary few miles after performing on the brakes. Check the brake fluid level at the following fuel stop and fill it to the MAX mark if needed. Read and learn about car Technical FAQ and get in-depth details of the car features.
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